Shake, Rattle and....Hot Water!

It's been an interesting busy week. First, there have been some minor earthquakes here in Nairobi the past 10 days. I think the biggest one was a 6.0. I had no idea that could occur here and from the reaction of the Kenyans they didn't either! One night I woke up at around 2:30 to the sound of the dogs barking, birds screeching. Minutes later everything in my room including my bed started rocking, shaking. Pretty crazy. I don't think there has been any damage but it's put everyone a little more on edge.
This is a presidential election year here which has added to the tension. On the one hand it's good because the incumbent is trying to get lots of things done so the people will vote for him, on the other hand there are demonstrations that often turn violent. The papers are full of political news.One thing I've found interesting here is no one reports about the weather, there's no forecast in the paper, no weather section on the nightly Kenyan news. I asked a Kenyan friend about it, he thought it was hilarious how much attention is paid to it in the US. He said why would you ever care so much about something you can do absolutely nothing about? good point. He also said all they care about here is politics. Politicians are the Kenyan celebrities. At least they have democratic elections. The election is set for December, I am glad I will be back home before that.
Crime continues to be a big issue here. There are 3 Fulbrighters here now, myself, heather, and a film student from USC. He was carjacked and his house robbed at machine gunpoint a few weeks ago, had all his stuff stolen. Including all his project stuff. 10 months of work gone. he was pretty traumatized, and is most likely just going to go home. It makes me glad I'm safe here at Nyumbani. And I am.
My friend Dr. Beck was here for a week, we had a great time. She did physical exams on all the kids in the day care! It took 2 days. You've never heard so many crying children! For many of them it was the first time they had ever been seen by a doctor, scary enough, but a mzingu one at that. Just about did them in. Now, every child has had their growth plotted, a medical chart created, and a baseline exam. The staff at the day care are so grateful for everyone's contribution, especially Dr. Beck.
I am getting ready to teach my program to 30 kids from the Nairobi slums. They will travel every day for 4 days to the kawangware slum, where the Kenyan nurse, Francis, and I will teach it. They get a free lunch and a Movin Shoes back pack for coming. I'm really looking forward to it, then when I'm done my Fulbright project obligation is essentially done for here. The rest of the time I will spend training other people so the project goes on.
The Cottage D kids are all doing well, Ken is not putting on weight but still he's not getting as sick. He seems depressed a lot now, and they don't deal well with that here. How that child has and continues to suffer.
The good news! They put up new solar panels on the volunteer house, and on a sunny day we have a hot shower!!! I had one yesterday, the first hot shower since we were on safari on July 8th. The only drawback is for some reason the water smells like gasoline. But, thank God, it's hot!!!!
Kuwa Salama Officer Tim, xoxoxo little boy

Pictures of Kilifi

Here are some pictures from our time in the coastal village of Kilifi. Right on the Indian Ocean!

Back on Monday? Right!

So I went back this morning, waited around.The immigration officer told me he would write the letter approving the extension, but it would take a long time to write. Come back next Monday.
So, I went to visit the owner of the shop where I had my camera fixed in 2003. I had stopped by again and he had remembered me and invited me back for tea.Today we finally connected and I had a wonderful time.His chai tea was so good,says he has his own recipe.He's Muslim, born in Mombasa on the coast. He has owned the camera store for almost 30 years, it's down the street from the Hilton in downtown Nairobi.We had a wonderful discussion about Islam,september 11th, the day the American Embassy which at the time was around the corner was blown up. He taught me a wonderful saying from the Koran: live your life so you will be missed when you are not there and remembered when you die. I liked that.
They found a big black snake under the table this computer is on, so I am done for the day!!!
Stay safe officer Tim, xoxoxo little boy happy bday mary lee

Patience is a virtue

It has been a busy week since my family left. On Monday morning I met with a woman from African Flying Doctors. They have an educational part of their organization where they train nurses. They're very interested in integrating my program into what they do. My goal now in these last months is to train as many people as possible so that when I leave the project goes on. Everyone is so enthusiastic about it and the need is so clearly there that I hope that goal will be met. On Tuesday I went to the village for a few days to check on how the classes were going there. I traveled with Nicholas, the head of the village, Joseph the Kenyan nurse who works there and our driver Justin. We had a very late start leaving Nairobi so most of the travel was in the dark. We stopped in Machakos, the last "city" of any size before you reach the rural area and the bush. We arrived quite late so had to go deep into the city to find a place to eat. I felt very safe with the guys, and was able to eat some real African food. Which, to Nicholas's amazement I actually ate and enjoyed. We got to listen to some music and hang out with some local people. The rest of the drive was as quick as road conditions would allow as we were all tired and anxious to get there. I listened to my IPOD and watched the stars through the car window, I mostly hid behind the supplies we were carrying so nobody would know there was a mizungo in the car, they only had me show my face at the police checks. There my presence increased the likelihood of a wave through. We were all glad to finally arrive. The classes are going well and Joseph is enjoying teaching them. I really love being there now, I walk through the village and people call out my name in greeting, I'm known there now and it feels very good. Late Wednesday night I had to help Joseph clean out a wound on the bottom of a little girl's foot, using a scalpel blade a needle and a flashlight, no electricity. The hug and whispered thank you I got from her was so touching, especially when she told Joseph that I was the village nurse too.
On Friday I had to go to Nairobi to get my visa extended. When it was extended in April it was only for 3 months. There has been all sorts of confusion as to what kind of visa I need because even though the Fulbright grant is a student grant I am not affiliated with a school here and I'm not a professor. The one year visa I paid for and got from the Kenyan embassy in DC was stamped for 3 months when I arrived in January. Anyway, the minister of science and technology had told me to come to his office on Friday and they would give me a letter explaining my status to take to immigration. When we climbed up the 10 flights of stairs and got there the man who was supposed to do it decided that I didn't need it, he wasn't going to do it,it was my problem and an immigration problem not their problem. Of course the minister was not there. He finally agreed to call and speak to immigration. They told him to send me over with a copy of my research permit. I had the permit back at Nyumbani but didn't bring it, since my phone and copy of my passport were stolen on a matatu, I am a bit hesitant to carry originals with me. I was uneasy enough having lots of shillings and my passport with me. The man told me I had to go back to Nyumbani and get the original permit.The whole time he is sitting there with their copy of my permit. When I told him it would take hours, he yelled at me and said well I had all day to do it! He finally agreed to make me a copy. Then it was down 10 flights of stairs, the elevators weren't working, across downtown Nairobi dodging peddlers, beggars, traffic, crowds over to the immigration building, a big yellow monstrosity. I was fortunate to have a Kenyan, Richard, from Nyumbani with me. We go there and the line for the elevator was out the door so we trudged again up 6 flights of stairs to meet Mr. Otumbe, who proceeded to yell at me that this was all highly irregular, that Nyumbani should have applied for a work permit for me if I was going to be here for more than 6 months. He takes out a copy of the immigration law and angrily points to the section about work permits and says I should have known that, I asked him where I would have gotten a copy of it and he said it wasn't available to the public. I tried to explain that I wasn't working, they weren't paying me, it was a student grant from the US State Dept., he grabbed my passport and papers, said he had to discuss this with someone higher up, and stomped off. Richard and I sat and waited, and waited. finally he returned and pretty much rudely repeated what he had said before. He then decided that perhaps, yes, the best idea would be for me to leave the country, actually leave East Africa, for a few days, then return and they would give me another 3 month stamp. He suggested a 2 day bus trip to Rwanda. And his cousin can recommend a bus company. I'm thinking I have to go on a bus to Rwanda? Then, he reaches down and takes out and puts on a hat that says "say no to corruption" Richard and I just look at each other, I don't know whether to laugh, cry, or just slug him. "Fulbright scholar arrested for assaulting immigration official." Upon further discussion he finally realized that I had left the country and returned in June, he examines my passport again and discovers that above the stamp dated June 5th there was some illegible writing that extended my visa until September 5th! Which I of course couldn't read and had never been told. Off he stomped again to the "higher up" as this was new information and even more highly irregular. Once again we waited,and waited. Finally he returned and said: Come back on monday.
We all just sat and looked at each other for awhile, then he begrudgingly said, have nyumbani write a letter explaining your role, we will extend you until November 18th. BUT YOU MUST LEAVE THE COUNTRY ON NOVEMBER 18th.
Richard was profusely apologizing for it all, had only planned on showing me the route between buildings but had decided he couldn't leave me to fight the war alone. I took him to lunch to thank him and the waitress screwed up the whole order.
I go back on Monday.
TIA This is Africa.
Kuwa salama (stay safe)and Happy Birthday Officer Tim, xoxoxo little boy Happy 5th Anniversary E and B

Back in the Saddle Again

Sorry for the long absence, but it was for a good reason. My family was visiting and we were doing lots of traveling. Ali arrived first, on the 29th. She was here in an official capacity as a presenter at the YWCA Leadership Conference. It was so fun to see how well she did, and how well respected she is by her colleagues. I got to stay with her in the Hilton hotel, hot showers!!! We also spent a day at the village, where we had an emotional memorable meeting with the grandmothers. I don't think anyone there will ever forget it. Mum Ann's family were the gracious hosts to my family, with all our comings and goings. It was so fun to show them all where I live, the kids I care for, the people I work with. There are so many things I've just gotten used to so it was fun seeing it through new eyes again. As they have learned, nothing is easy here. All the kids here loved them, there were lots of questions about Baby Jack! We went on safari, we spent 4 days on the coast. We stayed in the most beautiful home, overlooking the Indian Ocean, with the most attentive spoiling staff! It was actually fun to be pampered, and see other parts of Kenya at the same time. If I had my choice I think I would live on the coast, it's safer, the people are so less stressed. the poverty doesn't seem as desperate. but the HIV rate is still very high.
So now I'm back on my own, keeping busy, have a meeting with African Flying Doctors tomorrow about incorporating the project into their work. I'm excited about it. I'm then supposed to head to the village to check on how things are going there. Lots more people to meet, things to do....
Elizabeth and Ali have promised to put all the pictures and movies on the blog. Enjoy!Send emails!
Stay safe Officer Tim, xoxoxo little boy