Monday, February 26, 2007

No snow here!

Early last Friday morning I woke up sick, the first time I haven't felt well. Had a fever all day, waves of nausea. Who knows what it was, but the fever broke early Saturday morning. I went to mum ann's house Saturday afternoon. They were wonderful, I spent the night, they took great care of me. I laid on the couch and watched Kenyan tv, which is pretty much american tv shows that are at least 3 years old.I had to keep telling them I knew how it all turned out! The funny thing is they even show a mexican telenovela, dubbed in English! They truly are all over the world! I felt much better on Sunday, and came back to Nyumbani last night. I can't imagine being here for this length of time and not having them here, I would be so lonely. Gaia, who is 7, and calls me "grandmother Susan" is now so comfortable with me, she plops on my lap and loves to play with my evergrowing mizungo hair.
Friday is Ann's sister Carol's hopefully last surgery on her broken leg, I will be there to lend support and mizungo power! What an ordeal she has been through.
Yesterday morning after I woke up I sat at their table drinking my tea and watched monkey's play in the trees!
Nothing much else is new here, the sick ones rally, then get sick again. As long as they're staying alive I'll take it.
Ali is home from Cuba, Ali send your report to Elizabeth, Elizabeth will you enter it on the blog, we can give everyone a break from Africa and a more global perspective.
I'm the only volunteer who hasn't received any mail. If my packages from Tim and Elizabeth don't come this week I'm personally going to tear down the post office.
Mary Lee: thank you for the phone call, it was great to talk to you, even if it was the middle of the night. Just hearing a voice from home is wonderful.
Hello to Barb K: email me and tell me what you think of the blog.
This entry will be blessedly short!
Miss you all, timmy stay safe and xoxoxo little boy.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

odds and ends

I went to the wednesday clinic yesterday, vaccinated 68 babies!! They're having an intensive country wide polio vacciine effort right now, actually going door to door. It felt good to be doing my part. The day was filled with screaming babies as usual. One little boy about a year was laying there just staring at me, finally he reached up with both hands and just tugged on my hair! Couldn't resist gray mizungo hair!!
Tuesday night was birthday night at Nyumbani. Because there are so many kids and they don't know exact dates they just celebrate at one time all the birthdays that fall in that month. For February in Cottage D it was just Awino's 8th.She was so excited, just beside herself all day. We put a sign up, had some balloons. The kitchen makes them a cake with their name on it, and they get a little bag of donated gifts. They discourage volunteers from buying more, you can't do it for all the kids. Just like at home it has to be equal! It was such a special night, we all wore our cottage D we are family shirts, sang their special happy birthday song (they add " I look on you with a smile..." "I look on you with hope...") there was lots of laughing and clapping. Awino has to wear these goofy thick as coke bottle glasses, she kind of looks like a grasshopper! But her whole little face was so lit up, these kids have been through so much, have suffered and seen so much and to see the pleasure with which they celebrate their life was one of the most meaningful experiences for me. If you could have seen her face when she opened her present bag and found 2 used shirts, 2 coloring books, a puzzle and a toy horse. They also all very loudly count from zero to the birthday age and then she blows out the candles, a reflection I think of what an accomplishment it is to be HIV+ in this country and reach the age of 8. I've been listening to a lot of Raffi, the children's folksinger on my IPOD, the sick kids love it-the party so reminded me of my favorite song:"all I really need is a song in my heart, food in my belly and love in my family" and especially the lines: I need clean water for drinking and clean air for breathing so that I can grow up strong and take my place where I belong." Doesn't seem much to ask from the rest of the world does it?
Can't wait until next month's birthdays. I'll try to post pictures of Awino's.
No hot showers, plan to spend Saturday night and Sunday at Mum Ann's. Working hard on the project, PEPFAR intern came to Nyumbani this morning to meet everyone. I have been invited to the big meeting on March 8th, PEPFAR, CDC, Dept. of Defense, and USAID. I will have a meeting with the country coordinator before. Running with the big dogs!!
Ken is about the same, fevers have abated but continues to throw up just about everything he eats. Not good when your 10 and you only weigh 28 pounds. Sammy was better but came home from school early today not feeling well.
Stay safe Timmy, xoxoxo little boy, who's starting to walk!!!

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

4 weeks today

The time has flown, sometimes I think I will be here forever, other times I think I won't have enough time to get everything done. The target date to start the classes for my project is the weekend of March 5th, but here in Kenya where time is just a suggestion I'm not holding my breath!
Last Friday Sarah and I and Mum Ann's sister Grace went to downtown Nairobi. I had to "present myself" to the ministry of education, technology and science and pick up my official research permit. We took the city bus after meeting Grace in Karin, the traffic in was as horrible as I remembered, and we walked over to where all the big government buildings are. I had to turn in my ID's at the security desk, always an unsettling feeling, then the letter said to go to the 10th floor. We took the incredibly small and slow elevator up to the 10th floor. I showed my letter to the secretary and my receipt for the $300 I had already paid. She said "do you have a green card? I said no,had never heard of one, she said go to the 9th floor office. So we trek down there. I met the assistant minister of the ministry who says"do you have a green card? I say no, he looks at the letter that accompanied the receipt and says "that's the wrong letter" and proceeds to write me a whole new letter in longhand. Then, he goes to this big metal safe in the room, slides open the door, rummages around and pulls out a file with my name on it!!! I was so happy to see it, we went over everything in it, it was my application. 2 passport pictures etc . Then he says we need to get this ready you need to come back in 3 hours. He took us all back up to the 10th floor and gave the file and his letter to the secretary and they told me to come back. I asked specifically if I should come back to the 1oth floor and they all said yes.
Sarah Grace and I left, did some shopping, had lunch at the original Java House downtown.I was surprised at how much I remembered, how many things I could find, the Java House, our favorite internet cafe, where I got my camera fixed. It really made me feel good. We did a little shopping, stopped in the Hilton to use the bathroom.Grace told us how I could just walk in, go through the security and was free to wander around the hotel, she never would have been allowed in alone like that. Then we headed back to the Jogoo House, the ministry building. This time Sarah and Grace waited outside. The line for the elevator was very long so i walked all the way up to the 10th floor where they told me they didn't have my stuff, I should try the 9th floor. Back down to the 9th floor where after some time they finally found it. How could they lose it in 3 hours? Anyway I got my official green card research permit ! and a copy of the handwritten letter that turned out to be an exact copy of the letter he said was wrong. When we got back to Nyumbani the kenyans cheered me., I had been to the bureaucratic wars and I had won!!
Before we came home we went to the main post office to mail a package, that too was quite an adventure. It took about 45 minutes and we were the only ones in line!!!
On Sunday all the volunteers went to the market and lunch at Java house, my 3rd trip to java house in one week, a new record!I picked out a few things but will have grace buy them so i don't have to pay mizungo prices.
We have been taking 2 night rotations staying with ken (real name kennady). He's still pretty sick, not eating lots of high fevers. I really don't know if he will make it, even if he pulls through this time. He is so malnourished and he vomits everything we feed him, blows IVs, one of us usually sleeps with him so he feels comforted.I decided that even if he dies after everything he has been through he is in a place where he is loved and cared for, and has endless mizungos to sleep with! Keep him in your thoughts.
yesterday I spent the day at a slum clinic, my first time to the slums this trip. They are still undescribable, very sad. Lea Toto, the Nyumbani slum outreach program, has greatly improved though. They rec'd a large USAID grant for arv's, there are doctors in the clinic once a week, there are more antibiotics to offer. The kids look a little better, but their lives are still horrific. One of the things that lea toto does better than a lot of other agencies is all the social support, that's because we have been going for long before ARV's were available. Newer agencies are only handing out the meds, because they are so complicated and there are so many social issues it's not going as well for them. Fro example, the meds need to be taken at exact times, most of the people do not have clocks. So,Lea toto can supply some of them with little alarm clocks. The sad thing is many of the children are already failing on first line drugs and 2nd line drugs are even more complicated. If you really think about it it truly is overwhelming. I don't really see a way out of it all. so it's good I'm not in charge!
An example of what a small world it is: some new young volunteers arrived this week. They were talking about south side Chicago, they went to Marquette where I have a niece and nephew, and the girl, Jamie went to my high School!! We are McAuley girls!!! We're going to take our picture and send it to the alumni organization.
Hope you all are well, miss you all. xoxoxox little boy, timmy stay safe.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Happy Valentines Day!

Poured rain here last night, so today is my day off and it was quite a muddy walk to Karin. I am going to go with mum ann's sister carol to the doctor so I'm taking the day off from my other clinic too. To be honest I need a day without sick kids. Ken got very sick again yesterday, luckily the nyumbani doc was here. She tried forever to get an IV in him, hands, arms, head feet he doesn't have a good vein in his body. What I wouldn't do for some central lines!! Anyway we ended up having to give him his antibiotics in a shot in his nonexistent butt, I can only imagine how much it hurts. He held on so tight to me and cried and begged no, but we had to do it. He then proceeded to throw up all over so I got my just reward! I was able to go to the nyumbani medical team meeting yesterday. Quite interesting, all the docs from the slum sites etc meet and discuss patients policies etc. The challenges seem overwhelming but the quality of the people willing to try to meet them is inspiring.
Cousin Caryl: thanks for the comment, I'm glad that you're coming in September, there will be much to show you. Beck: I'm getting a tan line from my necklace, proof I never take it off. Timmy and Liz: I like your choices for the reception and rehearsal dinner, ALi seems to have the best luck calling me so try calling on your cell phone if you use a calling card. (hint: love phone calls, somethings never change!)
It's not all sad, though a lot is. The kids are so funny, I love walking across the compound hearing "susangold susangold" in that accent. I taught some of the little ones "little bunny foufou" they think it's hilarious and make bunny ears at me all the time. Cottage D is rocking on their multiplication tables.
Keep all of us in your hearts and today be glad that you're loved, no matter by who. love to all of you xoxoxo little boy, stay safe timmy

Monday, February 12, 2007

some of the Cottage D kids and mum ann

2 unlikely altar boys: George and John

even more pictures! sammy and I listening to Raffi on my Ipod

next 3 pictures




1) helping Ken
2&3 Ken, notice the size of his arm in relation to the bandaid, that's how small he is. He's 10 years old!

explanation of first 5 pictures

mum ann's house, amal with her face painted, my welcome back sign, mum ann's family and a group shot of us at her house

finally pictures!!





Saturday, February 10, 2007

Score!!

Yesterday I went to the American Embassy to pick up my boxes of Fulbright project stuff etc., meet with the Cultural Affairs Officer and the PEPFAR staff. Had a great meeting with Justus of CA, he bought me real iced tea! Then when I went to the PEPFAR office (that stands for the Presidents Emergency Program For AIDS Relief, check with Ali for details) It's essentially America's response to the crisis, and since we have all the money we have all the answers. Anyway they put me in touch with the person who is in charge of all the ARVS. I told him about Sammy and there is no way that boy can die because of no drug availability, especially when they do.exist in the world. I have found out too that part of Sammy's resistance problem is that in the beginning when they were first becoming available and he was getting them they often had to stop because they ran out, which causes resistance. PEPFAR John was very helpful and has promised to do what he can to get Sammy the drugs he needs. We start the process on Monday. If that is the only thing I accomplish while I'm here this has all been worth it. There is also an American MD here for a few days, he was here in 1998, and he has looked over Sammy's chart and is willing to help us. Sammy continues to be quite ill, we're taking turns sleeping in the sick room with him. They brought in a bed so it's a lot more comfortable. today I took him for a chest x-ray, a 3 hour ordeal. Unofficially he has an infection in his lung, we can go back after 3 and pick up the films and the official results. The good thing is the american doc will be able to look at the actual films. Nothing is easy here.
Jim and I did go out to dinner last night with Kate, dr. George, and some other people. It was good, relaxing, a welcome break.
Tomorrow all the volunteers are going on some field trip with all the kids, to some old African village. Should be interesting, if not chaotic.
Ken with his 1 CD4 is holding his own.
happy birthday aunt shirl,sorry I missed you when I called I will try again. xoxoxxo little boy.Timmy stay safe

Friday, February 9, 2007

A hard day's night

Tonite I am spending the night sleeping on the floor of the sick room, sleeping next to Sammy. He is, once again, very sick. He got off the school bus and came right here, he didn’t even go to the cottage. His fever is over 104, he has a bad headache, lungs sound pretty crappy. I have been with him since 2 o’clock this afternoon and will stay with him until the morning. He has asked numerous times “susan you are here until the morning?”I tell him yes and then he goes back to sleep. I read his “chart” and talked to Sr. Matron. She’s this wonderful nun who was on leave last time I was here and just returned from leave this week. She has this wonderful way about her and seems quite knowledgable, not so much medicine by myth. I’ve learned that Sammy who is 11, but who looks like he’s 5 or 6, has been on ARVs for 5 years but has never done well. He’s not grown well and has had lots of illnesses. They have tried all their different drug combinations which unfortunately are not as numerous as the States, all to no avail. Some they had to stop because they weren’t available anymore here, which probably added to the resistance.
They were finally, a few months ago, able to test his blood with all the available drugs and see if any would work. He unfortunately tested resistant to all but 2, one of which is not available in Kenya, (FTC)the other he was on in 2001 and it didn’t help. Still, they restarted the one they do have, 3TC, but one drug really won’t cut it. I think the next few months will have many nights like this, but again, this is why I’m here.
My Fulbright project boxes have arrived at the Embassy and I’m going to pick them up tomorrow. I will talk to the PEPFAR people tomorrow and maybe they will have some suggestions or even access to more current drugs for Sammy, (thank you ali for that idea). Sarah is sitting up with me so at least I will have company. The other volunteers will cover the next night. I probably won’t post this until tomorrow night, hopefully I will bbe able to add good news.
A few other things: we’ve been told the hot shower or lack of situation is not going to change, too expensive to fix. I was having phone problems, the Kenyans are always fixing our phones for us, but even they couldn’t fix it. So I had to take it to pascal, he’s our computer/electronic guru, he asked my for my phone number, at the blank look on my face he sighed and said “mizungos never know their phone number.” I’ve since memorized it. He did fix the phone.

Friday morning update: We made it through< Sarah stayed with me until 2, sammy woke up at about 2:30 with my favorite vomiting and also a high fever again. he finally settled down though slept restlessly the rest of the night until 6. I slept on blankets on the floor. Today he seems a little bit better, the doctor is coming this afternoon and I'm going to the embassy this morning to beg some new drugs. I did get a warm shower this morning in Jim's room, made up for the long night. Keep him in your thoughts and prayers.
xoxoxo little boy, timmy stay safe.

Wednesday, February 7, 2007

ken and the flashlight

I haven't blogged for a couple of days, we've had electricity problems, and I keep losing emails etc. I finally decided to just give it a rest.I'm sure you all enjoyed the break! On Saturday Jim and I went to Mum ann's house and met a lot more of her family. (sarah spent the day at Nyumbani village). They are really wonderful people.her sister Grace takes care of the house and her sister carol,who's recovering from a broken leg that she got in a car accident.the leg wasn't set right the first time and she's needed a second surgery and maybe a 3rd. She's in a lot of pain, but says the ibuprofen and tylenol I brought are bringing much relief.so in the meantime, Grace cares for her and her daughter gaia. Grace is an awesome cook, she made us mashed potatoes!!! I had 4 helpings! and this great tomato salad.food is definitely not as much as an issue this time. We met her 3 brothers who are great fun and very charming. They are all getting edcuated thanks to the mum ann fund, and they were profuse in their gratitude. I also met cynthia, her niece, who is now in nursing school, again thanks to the fund. She is very cool, working very hard to make her American family proud of her. We celebrated Christmas, and had so many laughs and just a wonderful time.They all loved their crocs, all the little gifts, Gaia spent hours playing with the fake snow! The highlight was giving Cynthia my niece Melissa's old laptop, (thank you brother tim) She just cried and cried,said it was the happiest day of her life. She said it will make school so much easier.She was really overwhelmed. We all cried actually!
I can't say enough what a wonderful family they are, and how much all of your generosity means to them.They pray for all of you every day, and want you to know the difference you have made in their lives. They are anxious to host you all when you come visit. We went for a walk by their house and saw monkeys!!
Ken is hanging in there, he was better for a few days but then woke again with fever and vomiting.No one really knows what's wrong, or if he will be able to make it. he is so vunerable.
I showed him the windup flashlight/radio that Sandy gave me and his whole face lit up. He has lived only in the slums and has seen very little.This flashlight was like magic for him. every night I bring it to the cottage and he holds it in his hand like it's the most precious thing. It gives him such pleasure and excitement.
I went to the other clinic today and again vaccinated about 80 babies. Even though they all hate me it gives me great satisfaction. newborns are given bcg,the anti-tb vaccine, and a dose of oral
polio. Then at 6, 10, 14 weeks they are given oral polio and a combo vaccine that is dtp, hep b and hib. at 9 months they get measles vaccine. At 6 months and then every 6 months until the age of 5 they get oral vitamin A supplement. There are no well baby checkups, they are only examined when they are ill. The nurse said there are just too many of them and not enough healthcare providers. We also give mosquito nets. I sleep under a net, not so much because malaria is a risk here (though rift valley fever has hit nairobi) but it's so much more comfortable not listening to bugs in my ear all night!
On the way home I stopped and brought some bread etc in Karen.The new Nakumatt grocery store has really changed karen, it's much more Western now. Though again some of the food is very expensive. It really brings in more middle and upper class people. but again,like most of Kenya it's very schizophrenic, surrounded by poverty. I do love the energy and sight and sounds of a developing country, it's so unique right ali?
I'm trying to think if anything else, oh we celebrated Sr.Mary's birthday with a dinner under the stars, great fun. Their happy birthday song is much better than ours.
stay warm, thinking of and missing all of you, timmy say safe, xoxoxo little boy.

Saturday, February 3, 2007

thank God for wireless

Saturday morning, the internet and electricity have been down for 2 days, for some reason though my wireless signal is working (thank you again Kerry!)so I thought I would answer emails by blog. I know you're all freezing there but here it continues to be great, though for 2 nights it poured rain, which is why the electricity is out. Ths morning I got my first warm shower, not hot but close enough,it felt so good, I will never take it for granted again.
Last night was very trying. Ken, the new boy in cottage D was quite ill. He has been here for 2 weeks, had been living in the slums caring for his brother and parents all who had died. he made his way to the Leo Toto clinic, the Nyumbani outreach clinic, they took him immediately to the hospital and now he is here. Like I said he is 10, but weighs 13kg, that's right 28 lbs, less than Baby Jack. He has active TB,now being treated which is good because he was coughing right in my face, oh well, his hgb was 3.4, his CD4 count is 1. Last night I was sitting on the step of the cottage with a bunch of the kids when I looked at him and realized that he was struggling to breathe. His temp was high, he was breathing at 44/min. I went and got Sr. Little, the Indian nun who is also a nurse. We took him to the sick room, where I listened to his lungs, total crap. While Jim held him SR. Little and I tried to get an IV in, kind of like sticking a big needle into a tiny piece of thread. he was screaming,(which in a way is a good sign, but heart wrenching to hear)then he threw up everything he had eaten for the last 2 days, ( you all know how I love puke!) we finally gave up on the IV, and ended up giving him 2 injections in his butt of the antibiotic. no clue if it was the right dose, but better than nothing. We also gave him oral rehydration salts. Thank you Unicef. These kids get so sick so fast, reminds me of my heme onc days. and with a CD4 count of 1 he really has no immune system. Then we carried him back to the cottage. He actually slept through the night and this morning he is much better, fever down, breathing much less labored. I had nightmares all night about the dose of med(rocephin) but I guess it was okay. Another chunk out of my soul.
Today Jim and I are going to Mum Ann's for the afternoon, i will meet the rest of her family and we will celebrate Christmas. That is the good part about being here. Sarah was able to hitch a ride to the Nyumbani village for the day, I'm excited to hear what she thinks. Tomorrow is Sr. Mary's birthday, after mass we will have a party, with real cake!!! Mass here is wonderful, kind of African theater. The kids sing and dance, I love it. Even if your not religious it's a wonderful experience. Last time I was here Brian would come (he was 3) and sit on my lap for the whole service. This time, my first sunday back, I was sitting there and heard a rustling down the row of chairs, Brian made his way back and sat right down on my lap, brought tears to my eyes.
Found Voice of American on my flashlight/radio if I sit outside and hold the little antenna it works, touch of home and well worth it. Again, Thank you Sandy!!
email responses: Kim: I will talk to Sr. Mary and to Kate about where to send the books.
Sarah: you better be there when I get there in May! There will be more suitcases to pack!
Sue: best treat ever getting your phone call, made me miss all of you. but so glad that my phone works, you can call anytime, day or night, and I will answer.
Beck: End of July is fine, talk to ali, my family neeeds to get their act together and set a date, but we could all be together too. It will be hard for me to be away from here for long periods of time. Can't wait to visit you in NYC!
Ali, be safe, call me when you get back to DC. Sue wants you to include you in your travel emails.
Mike: Tim has my account number, he can make deposits. i'm happy to help you.
Becca: haven't seen Knight she is away at school, I know I need to do pictures, I'm just afraid all of Kenya will crash. I promise next week!
xoxoxo Little boy, GO BEARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday, February 1, 2007

Hanging out with John

It's Thursday afternoon and I'm hanging out with Cottage D John, he's the one with the cut leg. He says to tell everyone that it's feeling a lot better, doesn't know when he's getting his stitches out, and he likes going to school. Some odds and ends:
electricity has been going out a lot lately, which makes email more difficult. If you don't hear from me it's most likely because of that.
Haven't had a hot shower yet, a few desperate cold ones. I heat water on the propane fueled hotplate and use that to wash my ever growing hair. Our new roommate is Jody, a recent nursing graduate from London, she's great fun. I make her a cup of coffee every morning when I make mine and she says "oooh the coffee fairy has been here! We all get along great, Sarah has been amazing, she's taken to this place like a duck to water. Nothing phases her. The kids love her, I hear them calling her when she's out and about. I hope to take her to downtown Nairobi for the day next week.
The kids all call me Susangold. one word. Don't know why that started but it's funny.

On Saturday Sarah Jim and I are going to mum Anne's family's house for a big party, can't wait to meet the rest of the family. Not much else going on, finally a quiet day. Elizabeth, I love little boy's haircut. He looks like such a big boy. Miss you all, keep those emails coming. It sometimes takes me a while and my reply will be brief but they make my day.